Here are the Steps I had taken when painting my own Acura Integra Body Lip Kit:
1. Wet Sanding - Kit Preparation (How to Wet Sand)
2. Primer the Kit - helps promote adhesion of the paint to the surface being painted.
3. Painted Lip Kit - pictures after painted with spray can.
4. Rubbing Compound and Swirl Remover - level out the gritty clear coat and bring it to a professional shine.
5. Lip Kit Pictures after Swirl Remover - the results of making the clear coat shine.
6. Body Lip Kit Painted and Installed (Acura Integra OEM Lip Kit Installation Instructions)
Hope this inspires some to try and paint your own body lip kit!
Regards,
Michael Kralj
Learn to detail your car in my other blog!
Instructions to Install Body Kit
Many people seek instructions or a guide to installing a body kit or body lip kit.
Here are the instructions I used to install my OEM Acura Integra Lip Kit.
Integra OEM Kit Install
Have any questions about the install? I would be glad to let you know the steps I took when I installed this kit.
Just leave a comment here and you will get your response.
Regards,
Michael Kralj
Are you a car body work guy with Diabetes? Learn about a Diabetic Diet in my other blog.
Here are the instructions I used to install my OEM Acura Integra Lip Kit.
Integra OEM Kit Install
Have any questions about the install? I would be glad to let you know the steps I took when I installed this kit.
Just leave a comment here and you will get your response.
Regards,
Michael Kralj
Are you a car body work guy with Diabetes? Learn about a Diabetic Diet in my other blog.
Using Rubbing Compound and Swirl Remover
Using Rubbing Compound and Swirl Remover
Rubbing compound is like a fine sandpaper, but comes in a liquidy paste form. The one I used was Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound, and it looks like this:
You rub the Rubbing Compound over the surface. I used a back and forth motion on it and you need to put some muscle into it to level the surface out nicely. You will notice the surface looks dull but you should be able to feel its more level and not gritty.
Once you think the surface is level, then I used 3M Swirl Remover. With this, I did it by hand and went in a back and forth motion really quickly. I didn't put too much pressure on it, but just enough and rubbed quickly. I rubbed back and forth about 30 times or so generating some heat on the cloth I was using.
You basically continue until the Swirl Remover liquid was hard to see, then wiped off the surface. I repeated the swirl remover 3 times per location. This made the surface really shine up. I will post up some pictures shortly of the before and after. You will be amazed as I was.
You can do the Swirl Remover by machine as well, but I won't give advice on that since i've never done it. With a machine, if you do it to long you can burn through the clear coat. By hand is safer, but takes longer as well.
Regards,
Michael Kralj
Get the information about Used Car Buying in Ontario in my other blog.
Rubbing compound is like a fine sandpaper, but comes in a liquidy paste form. The one I used was Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound, and it looks like this:
You rub the Rubbing Compound over the surface. I used a back and forth motion on it and you need to put some muscle into it to level the surface out nicely. You will notice the surface looks dull but you should be able to feel its more level and not gritty.
Once you think the surface is level, then I used 3M Swirl Remover. With this, I did it by hand and went in a back and forth motion really quickly. I didn't put too much pressure on it, but just enough and rubbed quickly. I rubbed back and forth about 30 times or so generating some heat on the cloth I was using.
You basically continue until the Swirl Remover liquid was hard to see, then wiped off the surface. I repeated the swirl remover 3 times per location. This made the surface really shine up. I will post up some pictures shortly of the before and after. You will be amazed as I was.
You can do the Swirl Remover by machine as well, but I won't give advice on that since i've never done it. With a machine, if you do it to long you can burn through the clear coat. By hand is safer, but takes longer as well.
Regards,
Michael Kralj
Get the information about Used Car Buying in Ontario in my other blog.
OEM Lip Kit Painted
OEM Lip Kit Painted
Here is the update where my Lip Kit has finally been painted my Clover Green Pearl. As with all painting, hold the spray can about 6-12 inches from the parts and do not lay too thick coats. The thinner coats are better as it avoids drips, but put enough to cover all areas adequately and evenly.
Here is a picture of the rear valence with 2 coats of green applied:
A closer shot of rear valence painted:
When applying the clear coat, ensure to give about 20 minutes of drying time on the base coat. The time to wait also depends on the paint, and on my spray can it recommended 20 minutes. Follow directions on your can.
Here are the rear valences drying with clear coat on it:
Closer shot of rear valences clear coated:
The OEM Front Lip with clear drying on it and the side skirts with only basecoat applied:
Front lip clear coated:
Another shot of the front lip:
Picture of the sides with clear coat on it:
Here I was anxious to see how well the paint matched, so I put it on the car quickly to see. Color match looks good:
Another view of the lip on my car:
Side shot with some light hitting it:
And yet another pic of the front lip:
Here is a picture of all the parts painted a fresh coat of green:
Picture of me holding the side skirt in place to see the color match:
Rear valences held in place to see the color match:
Once this was done, I had let my Lip Kit pieces dry for about a week and a half. Some recommend more, while others say less. This is to let the paint cure and harden. At this stage, once it hardens I took out the rubbing compound and swirl remover to make it shine. Stay tuned to see how I did this in posts to come.
Regards,
Michael Kralj
Buy a Car in Ontario and then buy some car detailing products.
Here is the update where my Lip Kit has finally been painted my Clover Green Pearl. As with all painting, hold the spray can about 6-12 inches from the parts and do not lay too thick coats. The thinner coats are better as it avoids drips, but put enough to cover all areas adequately and evenly.
Here is a picture of the rear valence with 2 coats of green applied:
A closer shot of rear valence painted:
When applying the clear coat, ensure to give about 20 minutes of drying time on the base coat. The time to wait also depends on the paint, and on my spray can it recommended 20 minutes. Follow directions on your can.
Here are the rear valences drying with clear coat on it:
Closer shot of rear valences clear coated:
The OEM Front Lip with clear drying on it and the side skirts with only basecoat applied:
Front lip clear coated:
Another shot of the front lip:
Picture of the sides with clear coat on it:
Here I was anxious to see how well the paint matched, so I put it on the car quickly to see. Color match looks good:
Another view of the lip on my car:
Side shot with some light hitting it:
And yet another pic of the front lip:
Here is a picture of all the parts painted a fresh coat of green:
Picture of me holding the side skirt in place to see the color match:
Rear valences held in place to see the color match:
Once this was done, I had let my Lip Kit pieces dry for about a week and a half. Some recommend more, while others say less. This is to let the paint cure and harden. At this stage, once it hardens I took out the rubbing compound and swirl remover to make it shine. Stay tuned to see how I did this in posts to come.
Regards,
Michael Kralj
Buy a Car in Ontario and then buy some car detailing products.
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